A VIBEY, CELEBRITY-BACKED STEAKHOUSE ISN’T TYPICALLY NOVEL IN LA. BLVD STEAK IS THE EXCEPTION

Welcome to the Scene Report, a new column in which Eater captures the vibe of a notable Los Angeles restaurant at a specific moment in time. Read Eater LA’s first Scene Report here.

Los Angeles might not be a steakhouse town like Chicago or New York, but red meat-loving Angelenos have ample options across the Southland, including David LeFevre’s Arthur J in Manhattan Beach, Koreatown’s all-you-can-eat H&H Brazilian Steakhouse, and sumptuous cuts from Nancy Silverton’s classic Chi Spacca. For many diners, a steakhouse meal is one of life’s most satisfying pleasures. Sipping on an ice-cold martini, diving into platters of fresh oysters, and ordering a side of creamed corn to pair with a perfectly cooked rib eye — hits just right.

Steakhouses are a vibrant part of American dining culture. However, the sky-high costs of opening a meat-fueled operation in an already pricey Southern California market, along with concerns about the environmental damage of livestock production and consumption, have contributed to a steakhouse slowdown in recent years. Some of LA’s more notable openings in recent years include Steak 48 in Beverly Hills, the Pendry Newport Beach’s ambitious Set Steak & Sushi, and the flashy Catch Steak in West Hollywood.

In Sherman Oaks, BLVD Steak debuted last November from the same restaurant group that introduced the Japanese robata eatery Taisho in 2021 and Mexican spot Casita in 2022; both restaurants are located a few blocks away. BLVD Steak is a dimly-lit spot that seats 235 diners across 7,000 square feet, with a rectangular bar and rear patios that fill up fast on weekends with regulars who live in or around Ventura Boulevard. Behind the stoves and white-hot grill is Innovative Dining Group veteran chef Adam Titze. Here was the scene at BLVD Steak on Saturday, March 9, 2024, at around 6 p.m.

The logistics: Without a reservation, plotting a visit to BLVD Steak from Thursday through Sunday can yield unsuccessful results. On my Saturday evening visit, the bar overflowed with drinkers as crowds waited by the door for a free table or barstool. Though weekends can get busy, tax season is a notoriously slow time for most LA restaurants. Operators also have some breathing room given Coachella and spring break. Parking can be scarce on Ventura Boulevard after 6 p.m., so valet makes life easier; just look for the bright white facade with a bold black sign on the corner of Matilija Avenue.

The vibe: BLVD Steak is popular with the celebrity set in the San Fernando Valley. Depending on the night, familiar faces can include music producers, recording artists (Dr. Dre, model Sommer Ray, and NBA legend Jerry West and his wife Karen are investors), actors, and entertainment execs who might show up for a quick bite or linger over a longer meal. I spied four heavy hitters on my visit and plenty more that immediately made me think, “I know I’ve seen them in X movie or TV show.”

For those who dined here during Te’Kila’s tenure, no remnants remain of the shuttered Mexican-ish restaurant. The rear parking lot has been converted into a 100-person covered patio swathed in white with custom tiles. The interior combines LA style with an East Coast aesthetic with its emerald banquettes and black walls. The main dining room gets downright dark after sunset; the wireless lights atop every table help illuminate the mostly black walls.

The menu: BLVD Steak gets massive points for a well-organized menu where steak is front and center, as it should be. The standard petit filet can be just as satisfying as the dry-aged 42-ounce tomahawk steak, while the wagyu section has three decadent options. Groups marveled over the seafood towers while sipping wines. Most tables ordered the lobster skewers with soy, garlic, and Fresno chiles. Pescatarians will easily find something grilled and tasty, while the spaghetti and wagyu meatballs are ideal for those not in a large-format meat type of mood. The servers are ones you might’ve met around town at other high-end spots, the type of seasoned professionals who can recommend the perfect side dish to accompany one’s protein of choice.

The drinks: The cocktail menu doesn’t reinvent the wheel but the drinks are well made and run from $17 to $23. Try classics like a martini, lemon drop, white Negroni, and watermelon margarita, or veer on the wild side for a caprese-inspired martini shaken with Grey Goose, Campari, tomato simple syrup, and sherry vinegar, and garnished with fresh mozzarella. The wine list hits every price point and varietal, with 18 pours available by the glass or half-bottle. The majority of the wines are from Northern California and Paso Robles, with a handful from New Zealand and Italy, and an extensive Champagne selection. The owners placed a reasonably priced rosé from Domaine De Cala on the menu for $40.

The verdict: Prepare for a bit of sticker shock, as one cannot depart BLVD Steak for less than $150 per person — that’s a conservative estimate for a drink, appetizer, and entree. But as far as splurges go, a meal here churns out hit after hit with service, flavor, and vibe.

2024-04-17T22:26:31Z dg43tfdfdgfd