THE BEST DISHES EATER DETROIT ATE IN APRIL

Here at Eater Detroit, we dine out several times a week, which means we come across a lot of standout dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Introducing a new monthly feature, highlighting the best things that the Eater Detroit team ate. Check back monthly!

Asparagus at Vecino

4100 Third Avenue

At Vecino, a new modern Mexican eatery that opened in April, you’ll find the quintessentially Michigan-grown asparagus paired with one of Mexico’s celebrated creations, mole. Here, the seasonal vegetable is cooked over the kitchen’s wood-fired hearth and topped with mole negro — one of the iconic seven moles of Oaxaca — and a dash of sesame seeds. Instead of using mole as a mask over a plain protein as is all too common on other menus, the subtly charred, smoky asparagus works happily with the fiery, fruity notes of the mole. The best part is wiping the plate clean with one of Vecino’s house-made nixtamal tortillas. — Serena Maria Daniels, Eater Detroit editor

Chifrijo at Antonio’s Coney Island

2896 Washtenaw Avenue, Ypsilanti

Antonio’s Coney Island in Ypsilanti serves classic coney fare, but the real attraction is its Central American dishes — such as pupusas and Honduran enchiladas catrachas. I recently tried a new addition to the menu, a Costa Rican speciality called chifrijo. Consisting of rice with tortilla chips, avocado, pico de gallo, and fried pork, it provides a perfect balance of flavor in a self-contained, compact meal. Typically, the dish calls for a dash of chimichurri, but the owners Irene Serrano and Miguel Martinez use their own recipe for pico de gallo. I absolutely love the simplicity of it. It’s pure comfort. — John Reyes, Ann Arbor-based contributor

Pepperoni bolillo rolls at Mexicantown Bakery

4300 Vernor Highway

Lore says that pepperoni rolls are the genius scheme of a Sicilian immigrant named Guiseppe Argiro, who invented the dish in West Virginia. I grew up gnawing on them in western Pennsylvania, so imagine my delight when I discovered the stumpy, cheesy, pepperoni stuffed bolillo roll at Mexicantown Bakery in Detroit. The pepperoni-stuffed bolillo at Mexicantown Bakery is phenomenal — buttery, golden, littered with sesame seeds, and ceremoniously jammed with the proper amount of pepperoni and queso blanco. The roll itself packs a crunchy outer crust with a soft, pillowy interior that’s delightful. Take away the pepperoni and cheese, and this roll still stands proudly on its own. It’s French, it’s Italian, it’s Mexican, and it only costs $2.50. — Danny Palumbo, Detroit-based freelance writer

Radish tartlet at Supper at the Mill

5440 W. Harbor Highway, Glen Arbor

I’m still thinking about the radish tartlet that I tried at Supper, a game-changing new restaurant just northwest of Traverse City. Chef Bobby Thoits pipes a house-made tartlet shell with tangy, horseradish-studded cultured cream. Alternating slices of Michigan-grown cherry belle radishes and green apple — each of which have been compressed in red verjus and white verjus, respectively — are layered into the cream, resembling a blooming rose. The dish ($6) is part of the Snacks section of Supper’s menu and is a lovely expression of one of the earliest vegetables to come out of any Great Lakes garden. — Stacey Brugeman, Fresh Coast correspondent

Bulgogi at Jungwon Oriental Market

2912 E. Long Lake Road, Troy

Just a five-minute drive from my home in Rochester Hills lies a small Korean grocery called Jungwon Oriental Market. At Jungwon, customers can purchase handmade dumplings or pre-packaged marinated meats to take home or have the food cooked on-site from a kitchen in the back. During a recent lunch break I chose the latter — a bulgogi beef dish that, when it’s prepared in the store, is served with rice and a complementary spread of banchan, several pickled side dishes that help to add depth of texture and flavor to any meal. The bulgogi is marinated in a blend of soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, pepper, and sometimes ingredients like pear or apple juice to tenderize the meat and add sweetness. It’s traditionally cooked over an open flame giving it its name which translates to fire meat in Korean. Here, it’s pan fried with onions and carrots. The banchan gives the flavorful, slightly sweetly-glazed meat an added kick and includes marinated fish cakes, soy sauce-braised potatoes, cucumber kimchi, and spicy radish. — Fatima Syed, freelance photographer

Pastrami chimi at Oak Parker

13621 W. Eleven Mile Road, Oak Park

Metro Detroit’s corned beef game is not to be underestimated. I want to take a moment to appreciate corned beef’s fatty cousin, pastrami. At Oak Parker, a relatively new bar and restaurant that sits in a cute white storefront on 11 Mile, you’ll find a variety of hand-breaded schnitzel, Hungarian sausage, and bar snacks, as well as an entire section dedicated to pastrami. I stopped in for lunch and had I had a larger appetite and more time on my hands, I would have opted for one of the sandwiches — all piled high with the slow-roasted, marbly brisket that’s cooked in-house daily. Instead, I opted for the appetizer-sized pastrami chimis — Oak Parker’s take on another Detroit area delicacy, the egg roll. Here, instead of using corned beef, as is typical of most loaded egg rolls around town, you’ll find juicy, flaky bits of pastrami. The outer shell (the chimichanga part) is nice and crispy. The portion is formidable. It comes with a spicy remoulade sauce for dipping. And if you’re like me and tend to graze your way through lunch, the chimis here hold up as excellent leftovers. — Serena Maria Daniels

Bombshell Treat Bar

2688 Coolidge Highway, Berkley

The novelty ice cream bar has gotten a dramatic, chef-driven refresh with the opening of Bombshell Treat Bar in Berkley. And I’m here for it. Here, chef Tori Parnell, formerly of Parc, uses the ubiquitous summertime treat as a canvas for sweet innovation. Visitors can customize their own bars by choosing their favorite ice cream base, dip, and toppings or opt for one of the parlor’s selection of whimsical combinations. For my current adult self, the margarita bar offers a refreshing take on a childhood favorite. It’s made with margarita-flavored sorbet, lime chocolate dip, a dusting of sugar salt and Tajín, and a drizzle of lime candy cream. It’s the perfect patio treat on a balmy day and on one such day in April, I did just that, taking time to enjoy the spot’s outdoor seating area. With a “Life is Sweeter in Berkley” mural painted on the side of the shop’s exterior, this treat and the vibe are gentle reminders to slow down and enjoy the little joys in life. — Courtney Burk, Detroit-based freelance contributor

2024-05-09T19:46:38Z dg43tfdfdgfd