THIS POP-UP SERIES CELEBRATES THE CREATIVE BEAUTY OF BOOZE-FREE COCKTAILS

The world of nonalcoholic drinking in Portland has shifted dramatically over the last ten years. Historically, it’d be a big deal to see a single mocktail on a menu; now, it’s more of a given. Oregon is home to its own zero-proof spirit brand and breweries, and vintners are now making nonalcoholic wines with state-grown grapes.

However, not all NA lists are created equal, in the perspective of Canard bartender Cliff Seminerio. Seminerio stopped drinking last April, and quickly discovered how limited options are, even now. “What I see on menus is maybe one nonalcoholic drink, or a bartender’s choice nonalcoholic drink,” Seminerio says. “You’ll ask a bartender to make you a drink and they’ll make a face.”

Seminerio wanted to showcase the beauty and creativity of what a booze-free cocktail could be, particularly when paired with exceptional food. So, in the summer of 2023, he threw his first Worry Not event, a nonalcoholic cocktail pop-up incorporating food from a Portland chef. Seminerio makes his own nonalcoholic components, also partnering with Oregon-made zero-proof spirit companies like Wilderton to create thoughtful drinks. But Seminerio is quick to clarify that Worry Not is about more than creating a space for sober gourmands; rather, it’s meant to be an inclusive event, where people can enjoy phenomenal food and drink, whether they’re sober or not. “None of the drinks have alcohol, they’ll never have alcohol, but anyone can enjoy this,” he says.

Worry Not began as a “not so boozy” brunch pop-up at Cooper’s Hall Northeast, with chef Jahmichael Knutson. At the next pop-up, chef Kevin Jones — most recently at the new Southeast Ankeny tavern Moonshot — will serve fried chicken and soda cakes alongside Seminerio’s zero-proof amaro and rhubarb shrub sweet tea drinks.

Jones went to the first Worry Not pop-up as a patron and sober chef, wanting to support his now-former Bar Casa Vale colleague; when the bartender asked Jones to participate, he happily agreed. The April 28th pop-up, which runs from noon to 3 p.m. at Cooper’s Hall Northeast, will primarily feature a Southern theme, with buttermilk-brined fried chicken, mac and cheese, and braised greens — similar to the food he makes at Moonshot. He’s particularly excited about the Mountain Dew cakes, which he’s calling Gamer’s Delight. “I have this love for soda cakes, and I love Mountain Dew,” he says. “I’m still a 13 year old boy in a way, you know? I love having Mountain Dew and Taco Bell in the middle of the night playing video games.”

Seminerio wants Worry Not chefs to have free rein over the menu, but he designed a few cocktails to work as pairings. For example, one drink uses a foundation of Wilderton’s Earthen spirit, which he cooks down with Dr. Pepper, burdock root, anise seeds, and caramelized sugar. The inspiration was a drink known as an Alabama Slammer, a combination of amaretto, Southern Comfort, sloe gin, and orange juice. “You get this roasted caramelization, this tea-like fragrance of the Earthen, the amaretto from the Dr. Pepper, the anise for licorice structure,” he says. “It should be a fun tiki-inspired margarita-style beverage.”

For another Southern-fried cocktail, the bartender makes his own koji-fermented peanut milk he pairs with Korean banana milk for a play on an Elvis sandwich. The koji-fermented peanut milk is a variation on a drink he designed for Le Pigeon’s nonalcoholic cocktail pairing. Many drinks Seminerio makes rely on house-made elements; for instance, the Darth Brooks uses his own nonalcoholic amaro, paired with cold brew, Okinawan brown sugar, and toasted milk powder to give it froth. The resulting drink is something like an espresso martini.

Many mocktail connoisseurs have likely tasted Seminerio’s drinks before, whether it was a part of a Le Pigeon pop-up or on the cocktail menu at Canard. Currently, the bartender is working on developing a nonalcoholic beverage list for Heavenly Creatures, and will begin teaching nonalcoholic cocktail classes in June at Kitchen Culture. His goal is to make nonalcoholic options more appealing at bars and restaurants across the city, for those who drink and those who don’t. “I like to see folks start with an alcoholic drink and then switch back and forth with nonalcoholic drinks,” he says. “They should have equal weight on a menu.”

Worry Not will run from noon to 3 p.m. on Sunday, August 28 at CH Northeast, 2218 NE Broadway.

2024-04-22T20:34:51Z dg43tfdfdgfd